A Very Memorable Citrus Salad

Before spring produce steals the spotlight!

Hello, Susanality subscribers!

As always, I’m so glad you’re here, but that always bears repeating. I work hard on this newsletter, and I’m especially appreciative of those who help to support this project financially (that’s you). I put lots of time and money into it (all this food isn't free, you know!) and I wouldn’t be able to continue without you.

For this midweek missive, I thought we’d talk about citrus. Though spring officially started on Monday (yay!), it's still kind of cold where I am in the Northeast, and the growing season hasn’t really begun. I was in Philadelphia last weekend and the difference was remarkable. Only 100 miles south, and all the trees were in bloom and sunny daffodils were everywhere, so I know it’s coming — and soon!

Before spring produce steals all of my attention, I wanted to share a recipe starring citrus, which I’ve been especially enjoying this year. I’ve been buying lots of fruit to eat as snacks and dessert, and, except for a few duds, most of the mandarins and satsumas have been spectacular. My friend Sarah Copeland recently devoted not one but two posts to the subject of citrus too on her lovely Substack newsletter, Edible Living. Great minds, huh? For even more ideas on what to do with this refreshing fruit, head on over there!

This variety was new to me this year. They were flecked with pink throughout (they’re in the salad pictured above) but not as dark as a typical blood orange. They didn’t have the tartness of some of my favorite citrus, and some of them were mushy, but I had to try them!

This beautiful selection of products from Brightland, a favorite brand of mine, arrived just as I was working on this post. The flavors (and even the colors) went so beautifully with the recipe, it seemed like kismet. These sets are great for gifting, maybe even to yourself!

My husband, Steve, and I recently ate at one of our favorite neighborhood restaurants, Vic’s in NYC (yes, I’ve been spending a little more time here lately), and had the most delicious meal. We were trying to keep it light, as I was about to start a medically necessary fast, so we ordered the “Heirloom Citrus Salad,” which can be so many things, right? For me, one of the signs of a good restaurant is when a simply described dish exceeds your expectations, as this salad did. 

The citrus was cut into various chunky shapes, not just flat rounds as is often done, and the pistachios that were advertised were ground up rather than in big chunks. This allowed the nutty flavors to permeate the salad and almost coat the fruit as you ate it. Fresh tarragon added just the right flavor contrast to make everything sing. And though the salad was 100% fruit — i.e. without lettuce or other vegetal element — the whole thing took on a savory flavor. When I recreated the salad for today’s recipe, I had no trouble slurping it up and enjoying every bite, just like I did at the restaurant, and I think I came pretty close to the original!

Here are all the varieties of citrus I found on one trip to the store!

 To revive sad, wilted herbs, just let them sit in a bowl of cool water for at least an hour and they will perk right up. This photo was taken the next day, and they kept getting perkier!

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Citrus Salad with Champagne Vinaigrette and Tarragon

Serves 2 (double as needed!)

You can use a mix of citrus varieties here or just one type of delicious orange! I used everything I could find, but I forgot about Cara Cara, those would have looked pretty and tasted good too. Cut some into supremes (that’s when you cut between the membrane to create pithless wedge — here’s a good guide with visuals); some into wheels; and, for satsumas, sumo oranges, and mandarins, simply pull them into sections as you would if eating out of hand. Let the pulled-apart sections hang out in the citrus juice that you’ll have from cutting the other citrus; this will help the membrane macerate a bit and will look prettier in the salad. 

• 1/3 cup shelled pistachios

• Zest of 1 orange

• 1 tablespoon orange juice (which you can collect from your cutting board after cutting the citrus)

• 2 teaspoons champagne or rice wine vinegar

• Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper

• 1 to 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

• 1 pomelo, pith cut off and cut into sections (AKA supremed)

• 1 to 2 blood oranges, Mineola tangelo, or Cara Cara oranges, pith cut off and cut into sections (AKA supremed)

• 1 or 2 mandarins or satsumas, peeled and broken apart by hand

• Handful of fresh tarragon, mint, or basil

• Flaky sea salt

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1. Heat a small skillet over medium heat and add the pistachios. Toast the nuts gently, reducing the heat if necessary to avoid burning them, for 4 to 5 minutes. Transfer to a small plate or bowl to cool. When cool, chop fairly finely by pulsing in a (preferably mini) food processor. Set aside.

2. In a small bowl, combine orange zest, orange juice, vinegar, and salt and pepper to taste. Use a fork to mix and then blend in the oil. 

3. Arrange the prepared citrus on salad plates or on a small platter to serve communally. Drizzle the dressing evenly over the top. Sprinkle with the tarragon and season with flaky sea salt and more pepper. Sprinkle a generous amount of the pistachios over the top and serve immediately. 

Citrus Salad With Champagne Vinaigrette & Tarragon

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Want more citrus? Try my Citrus Salad with Green Olives, Burrata, and Honey-Roasted Pistachios shared here last winter! Or my Chocolate-Dipped Citrus with Pistachios.

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Editor: Molly Ramsey