Easy Fancy Food
Colu Henry’s "My Cec"—a gorgeous recipe from her new cookbook
Hi and welcome to Susanality, a newsletter by me, Susan Spungen, that celebrates seasonal cooking. Thank you for being here! I want to remind you that all Susanality posts live here. And if you enjoy today’s post, please help spread the word by forwarding this email to someone else who may like it too!
As I enter the final weeks (eek) of writing my new book, I’m finding myself with very little extra time to focus on anything else! So this week, I thought it would be fun to show you a little bit more of my friend Colu Henry’s new book (which I mentioned to you a few weeks? months? ago). It finally came out this week, and I think you might like it! It’s full of exactly what the title promises: Easy—Fancy—Food. Not too fancy though. I guess it all depends on how you define that word. I think what she means is easy enough for any day, but fancy enough for anyone you might want to invite over.
Here’s what she says in her intro: "…I wanted to write a personal book that inspired home cooks to make simple yet sophisticated dishes they’d feel proud of.”
Now that’s an idea I can get behind! I first met Colu a number of years ago when she was working on the marketing side at Bon Appétit and I was hired to be the food stylist for the day on what’s known as an “advertorial.” There were top chefs and shiny cars involved, and I had a great day working with her. I’ve enjoyed watching her evolve into the cookbook author she is today, and I very much share her ethos about cooking and entertaining.
The recipe that Colu (thank you, Colu!) and I are sharing with you today stopped me in my tracks when I was paging through the book. It’s an updated version of a recipe she created for @nytcooking a few years ago, where it became a fan favorite. I always wanted to make it, but never did. I will be making this though—and soon, because I already have all of the ingredients in my pantry, including this farro ditalini I got at Eataly that I’ve been wanting try.
This is exactly the kind of dish I’ve been really enjoying lately. I’ve been having more “meatless” meals than ever and am really loving them, especially when they’re filling and hearty like this one. The recipe does include pancetta, but it can easily be left out if you’re a vegetarian.
There are a few other exciting spring books I’ll be sharing with you in the weeks to come. And while we’re on the subject of cookbooks, I wanted to let you in a little bit more on the cookbook-writing process, I have a deadline in June for my manuscript, which is all the words—including the recipes! I really like to meet my deadlines, so I’m doing everything I can to get it in on time. It’s truly all-encompassing.
After that, all of the art (i.e. photography) is due about a month later. Does the work stop there? Nope! That’s when you move into the next phase of editing the book, where many passes go back and forth between me and various editors. It’s kind of like a game of hot potato. So while I won’t be chained to my desk (and the stove) as much as I am now, there will still be lots to do! The recipes will be cross-tested by independent recipe testers to make sure they work as well in someone else’s kitchen as they do in mine. And after the book is finally put to bed, it’s time to start promoting, but that’s a whole other story.
I love making cookbooks and reading cookbooks, and I have a feeling you do too! I hope you’ll try Colu’s “My Cec” recipe, and be sure to check out her cookbook, Easy Fancy Food. I promise it won’t disappoint! (P.S. I linked it on Amazon there for easy reference, but, of course, look for it at your favorite bookstore, whether that’s online or otherwise!)
Giftable Shortbread!
With Mother’s Day coming up, I wanted to tell you about something I think would make a lovely gift—or be perfect for a holiday brunch table. My friend Laurie Ellen Pellicano makes delicious and beautiful shortbread in a variety of hues and flavors as well as some really tasty savory treats. They are baked fresh in small batches and would make a really special gift!
FYI, the cut off for Mother’s Day gifting is Monday, May 2, according to her site.
Speaking of Mother’s Day…
I’d be remiss to talk gift ideas without reminding you of my current cookbook, Open Kitchen! Sometimes when I’m in the throes of creating something new, I forget about my existing work, but I honestly keep coming back to these recipes again and again in my own kitchen.
If you already own it, turn to page 355 to find a menu idea for a “warm-weather brunch.” With Melon Toast (page 50), Flower Omelette Crepes (page 177), Roasted Radishes with Radish Green Pesto and Crème Fraîche (page 263), and more, it would make for a lovely spring meal, be it for Mother’s Day or just because.
And, of course, a subscription to Susanality makes for a great gift too! Perfect for someone who’s trying to experiment in the kitchen, go a little deeper into technique than you can with a cookbook, and/or just wants delicious, seasonal recipes delivered to their inbox or app.
My Cec
(Recipe written by Colu Henry and published in Easy Fancy Food)
The original request for this one-pot recipe came from my lovely editor Margaux at the New York Times. I’ve oddly never made pasta e ceci this way before, even though I wrote a whole book on pasta! And, although I’m generally against cooking pasta in the sauce it’s served in, I make an exception here. It really works. A lot of readers thought so too as it became one of my most popular dishes in record time! I started affectionately referring to her as “My Cec.” I’ve changed a few ingredients in this version to make it how I would serve it at home, but the best part about this recipe is it relies on pantry ingredients and is incredibly forgiving. Use water in place of stock, use uncased sausage instead of pancetta (or leave the meat out entirely and keep it vegetarian). It’s truly a crowd-pleaser of a dish, and on a cold and blustery night it’s easy to double, so having friends over and opening a lot of red wine are actually the only two ingredients that aren’t optional.
INGREDIENTS
2 tablespoons olive oil, plus more for drizzling (optional)
4 ounces (115 g) pancetta, finely diced
1 medium yellow onion, finely chopped
3 cloves garlic, finely chopped
2 teaspoons chopped fresh rosemary
1/2 teaspoon red pepper flakes
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 cup (165 g) diced canned tomatoes with their juices
1 can (15 ounces/430 g) chickpeas, drained and rinsed
3 to 4 cups (720 to 960 ml) chicken stock
1 cup (120 g) ditalini
5 cups (210 g) roughly chopped escarole, dandelion greens, or something else green and wiltable
Freshly grated pecorino cheese, for serving
SERVES 4
TIME 30 minutes
METHOD
Heat the oil in a large stockpot or Dutch oven over medium heat. Add the pancetta and cook until crispy and golden. Remove with a slotted spoon and set aside on a paper towel–lined plate. Add the onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened but not taking on any color, 4 to 5 minutes. Add the garlic, rosemary, and red pepper flakes and cook 1 minute more. Season well with salt and pepper.
Add the tomatoes and the chickpeas and stir to combine. With a spatula or the back of a spoon, crush about 1/2 cup (90 g) of the chickpeas so they release some of their creamy texture into the sauce.
Pour in 3 cups of the stock and turn the heat to medium-high; when it comes to a boil, add the ditalini. Cook, stirring frequently to make sure the pasta is not sticking to the bottom of the pan, until the pasta is just short of al dente, about 8 minutes. Turn down the heat to medium. Add the escarole and the reserved pancetta to the pot and cook until the greens are wilted, 1 to 2 minutes more. The pasta will absorb most of the stock, so feel free to add in 1/2 to 1 cup (60 to 120 ml) of the remaining chicken stock if you prefer a brothier stew—it’s up to you. Ladle into bowls and top with grated cheese and a drizzle of more olive oil if you please.
Thank you again to Colu for letting me share this recipe! Let us know if you make it in the comments section.
Another keeper recipe! Thank you Colu Henry and Susan!
Thank you so much for including me in your wonderful newsletter! xx