Gingerbread Snacking Cake
From Laurie Colwin, queen of simplicity
When I filled in the Susanality editorial calendar at the beginning of this month, before the fires erupted in Los Angeles, I slotted in this post about Laurie Colwin, the great food writer who died much too young, at age 48, back in 1992.
I’ve always loved Laurie’s natural — and often funny — voice, as well as the straightforward and guileless way she approached cooking. She was the true progenitor of “nothing fancy.” It seemed like the chill of January would be a good time to get back to simplicity in the kitchen. But now more than ever, it seems like simplicity and comfort should be on the menu.
On a related note, if you want to help the communities of Los Angeles, World Central Kitchen is always a good place to give. Some charities have said they don’t need any more donations, but the need to feed displaced people continues.
Laurie Colwin mostly wrote fiction — novels, essays, and short stories — but two of her works, Home Cooking and More Home Cooking, included recipes. Before we all took pictures of our food, cooking somehow was more honest and uncomplicated, especially what we cooked at home for family and friends. Thanks to social media, cooking is way more of a competitive sport than it was back when Laurie was writing Home Cooking in the late '80s.
The book is a collection of essays, some of which were previously published in magazines including Gourmet, where she contributed regularly. I’ve really loved reading this book again. It is truly a breath of fresh air. Some things seem dated, or perhaps quaint is a better way of putting it. Like sending away to Abbeville, Louisiana for cans of Steen’s Pure Ribbon Cane Syrup (a whole case for $15.49, including shipping!). That’s how it was done then!
One of the essays, titled “Bitter Greens,” is about discovering the very exotic broccoli rabe. And of course what to make with it. In this case, a big platter of baked chicken with steamed broccoli rabe and polenta. I considered sharing that recipe with you today, but I went with gingerbread instead. It seems like most people reserve gingerbread for the holiday season, but why? A simple snacking cake like this one is perfect for anytime of year in my opinion. And if you haven't taken down your Christmas decorations yet, even better.
You can get a feel for Laurie's voice just by skimming the table of contents. Some other essays are titled “Bread Baking without Agony,” “How to Disguise Vegetables,” “Feeding the Multitudes,” “Alone in the Kitchen with an Eggplant,” “Repulsive Dinners: A Memoir,” “How to Avoid Grilling,” “Kitchen Horrors,” “Easy Cooking for Exhausted People,” and “Stuffed Breast of Veal: A Bad Idea,” to name just a few.
To read more about Laurie and her life, this profile from a few years ago in the New York Times will fill you in quite well.
I didn’t know about Laurie back in the '80s, even though I read Gourmet religiously and lived a few blocks from her in the Chelsea neighborhood of Manhattan, which was not at all fancy then. I was just starting to cook professionally and I spent a lot of time sitting on the floor of Barnes & Noble reading cookbooks to teach myself how to cook. I wish I had found Laurie’s work then, but I happened upon it much later. It seems I bought my copy of Home Cooking in 2004, from a now-defunct shop in the San Francisco Ferry Building called Culinaire, according to a postcard that’s still tucked into the pages.
Both the writing and the kind of food Laurie writes about are a comforting balm. You may learn more about how to “be” in the kitchen than any new culinary tricks, but sometimes we don’t need any new tricks, just some good food and good company.
If you don’t already know Laurie and her writing, as I’m sure some of you already do, consider reading through her oeuvre, all still in print. If you have read her, tell me all about it in the comments. I’d love to hear what you think!
If you’re in the mood for snacking cakes…
Here’s another one, from the Susanality archives. This is one of the most popular newsletters I’ve ever sent, and for good reason. But don’t take my word for it. Here’s what reader Michelle A had to say in the comments: “So flavorful, so moist, so pretty, and the technique was fun and interesting — wonderful recipe, thanks!”
Citrus Olive Oil Cake
I’ve tasted more than one olive oil cake that was heavy and greasy, but this cake is anything but. It is redolent with citrus flavor, and the fruitiness of the olive oil really shines through without overpowering. The toasted almonds add even more flavor, and the texture is light and fluffy. What’s not to love?
