Jumbo Omelet

With a potato chip garnish (à la The Bear)

I am definitely an omelet person. My standard coffee shop order in my twenties was a cheese omelet with rye toast and coffee, and it was a meal I enjoyed often. Sadly, the NYC coffee shops of my youth have dwindled, but I used to spend a lot of time in them. But alas, that’s not what today’s newsletter is about. 

I learned to be a pretty good omelet maker at my first real food job at my beloved Commissary. I hadn't really cooked professionally yet, even though I was an avid amateur in my teens, and at this job, I was mostly a “counter person” — cutting desserts, slicing smoked salmon, tossing salads, and sometimes busing tables. Some days, though, I got to stand in the back of the restaurant in my own little kitchen and make omelets to order. The little omelet booth was another stop for customers in this upscale cafeteria-style restaurant. I’d made an omelet or two at home, but I never had to make them ON DEMAND and right in front of a customer. I should mention I was still a teenager. The pressure was on, especially since we used French cast aluminum pans rather than nonstick. I remember clarifying the butter at the beginning of my shift and being shown rather quickly by one of the more experienced cooks how to do it. After that, I was on my own. 

If you like eggs, an omelet is a near perfect food. It can be eaten for any meal of the day. Somehow, scrambled eggs don’t feel like dinner, but an omelet does. I’m always surprised by how satisfying of a dinner an omelet can be. It’s the perfect meal for one. It takes just minutes to make, uses ingredients you have on hand, and yet feels kind of special. 

But what about those times when you want to share your love of omelets with others? Like houseguests maybe, or just your family? There are inherent problems with trying to make multiple omelets and still have everyone eat together. And who wants to be a short-order cook at home? Frittatas are fine — and I make them all the time — but somehow they’re not quite as good as omelets, with their soft center of slightly runny egg (or however you like it!), oozing cheese, and whatever filling you choose. 

I first made this kind of oversized omelet out of necessity. I was working as a chef in the prepared food section of a fancy store and the owners announced that the staff was no longer allowed to eat any food from the store during their shifts. That was the beginning of the end for this place — it was not a good way to rein in costs because of the bad will it engendered. In any case, I rebelliously decided to feed the dishwashers. I had to make something quick and nourishing, so I made a jumbo omelet, cut it into pieces and surreptitiously served it. They loved it, and they were well fed!

I still like to do this if I have a houseful, and you can use whatever you have on hand to fill it. For today’s recipe, I loaded mine up with veggies, some runny aged goat cheese, and a few slices of ham. I topped it off with some snipped chives and some CRUSHED POTATO CHIPS, because I saw it on The Bear and everyone is doing it! I decided there could be nothing wrong with a crunchy potato chip garnish on an omelet — and confirmed, there isn’t! — but make sure you sprinkle them on at the last minute because they don’t stay crunchy for long.

In case you missed it, last season on The Bear, Sydney whipped up an omelet for a hungry and pregnant Nat, aka Sugar, filling it with Boursin (which is having a moment too) and topping it off with chives and crushed potato chips. So simple, elegant, perfect, and satisfying.

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A Perfect Side Salad

Fresh mixed greens dressed in a delicious homemade vinaigrette are an ideal accompaniment for this omelet. Follow the tips I share in this dressing primer to make your own!

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Jumbo Omelet

Serves 4 to 6

You can keep things simple and just fill the omelet with your favorite cheese, or use some leftover or cooked-to-order veggies (any kind of mushroom would be great, or greens, or ratatouille maybe?). I usually try to use the same pan to cook the filling, giving it a wipe or rinse before making the omelet. If your pan is not super non-stick and you think the omelet is stuck, let it sit, covered, off the heat for a few minutes before turning it out. The steam will help release it.

• 2 tablespoons olive oil, divided

• 1 small red onion, thinly sliced

• 3 baby or 1 medium zucchini, about 8 ounces, sliced into rounds

• 12 large eggs

• 3/4 teaspoon kosher salt, plus more for seasoning

• Freshly ground black pepper

• 1 tablespoon butter, plus more for the top

• 2 to 3 ounces cheese (I used Vermont Creamery Cremont)

• 2 slices ham (about 1 ½ ounces), torn into pieces

• 1 tablespoon snipped chives

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1. Heat a 12-inch non-stick skillet over medium heat. Add 1 tablespoon of oil and the onions and cook until soft and golden, 8 to 10 minutes. Transfer to a dinner plate.

2. Add the second tablespoon of oil and add the zucchini. Season with salt and pepper and cook over medium heat until turning golden, 5 to 6 minutes. Reduce heat to low and cook 2 minutes longer, until soft. Transfer to the dinner plate. Wipe or rinse out the pan.

3. Beat the eggs with the salt, plenty of pepper, and 2 tablespoons of water. Heat the skillet over medium-low heat and add the butter. When it’s foaming, add the eggs and stir with a rubber spatula for about 3 minutes until there are more curds than liquid, then stop stirring. Gently pull the edges back with the spatula, allowing any remaining liquid to flow to the edges for another minute or two. It should still look somewhat loose on top.

4. Add the zucchini, onions, cheese, and ham (see the image below for a visual and for more specific instruction on where to place the fillings), and cover the pan. Cook on the lowest possible heat for 1 to 2 minutes longer, or until cooked to your liking.

5. Have a large platter ready and center the edge of the pan on the platter, holding the handle at about a 45 degree angle. Use the spatula to help roll the omelet from the top edge as you let it slide onto the platter. This is hard to explain but it will make sense when you’re doing it. Don’t worry if it doesn't land perfectly on the platter. Use the spatula and your hands to nudge it into position, tucking the edges under if need be. Alternatively, use the spatula to roll the omelet while it is still in the pan, and then slide it, seam side down, onto the platter.

6. Butter the top of the omelet if desired, and sprinkle with chives and potato chips, if using. Cut into slices for serving with a side salad.

Knowing when to stop stirring is key to making a good omelet. The photo on the left is how it looks about halfway through the process. In the photo on the right, there are more curds than liquid. From that point on, just gently pull the edges back so the smooth outer surface of the omelet can set.

Scatter the filling you’re using, concentrating on the center of the omelet in a line perpendicular to the handle of the pan so that it will be filled from end to end when you turn it out. I also added ham here, but snapped the picture before I added it.

Jumbo Omelet

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Editor: Molly Ramsey