Lemon Sponge Pudding

Starving artists edition

Welcome to issue #18 of Susanality, a free weekly newsletter. Thanks for being here! If you’re loving this newsletter, please consider a paid subscription. Having your support would mean a lot to me, as I continue to work hard to bring you fresh content on a weekly basis with additional posts and recipes going out to paid subscribers at least twice a month. Thanks again!

---

Recently, I was leafing through my copy of Dinner with Jackson Pollock, a really cool book. More than just a cookbook, it is all about Jackson Pollock and Lee Krasner’s life in the 1940’s and 50’s, how art, food, and nature were intertwined. Their home, where they both painted, is now a museum. It’s just a bike ride away from mine here in Springs, NY, so I feel especially connected to the life they lived. I enjoy the same local clams and strawberries that they did, and enjoy the same beautiful light and vistas. The area is still a mecca for artistic types; entertaining casually at home is still one of the more popular social activities, at least among my circle. After pausing for the past few years, it’s back. It seems everyone could not be happier than to indulge in the simple pleasure of sitting around the table with a few close friends again, eating good food and drinking good wine.

The recipes in the 2015 book were taken from Lee Krasner’s recipe files and her cookbook collection (which is still on the shelves of the kitchen at the Pollock-Krasner House and Study Center). Many handwritten recipes were found tucked into the cookbooks. The author/photographer of the book was given special access to the house — I’m jealous. The book feels very authentic to the couple, whose existence was both quietly domestic and famously tumultuous. 

It’s interesting to see recipes that seem dated (Pea Salad with Russian Dressing) next to ones that are classic (French-Style Roast Chicken with Herb Stuffing and Old-Fashioned Macaroni & Cheese). All in all, their good taste in food comes through. Most of it would be right at home on today’s table — even though so much has changed in the world at large and the world of food since the era of these starving artists. 

One recipe in particular caught my eye. Titled simply, “Lemon Pudding”, I recognized it as the same Lemon Sponge Pudding I used to make back in my catering days for big parties, because it was easy to make, very cheap, always in season, and was possible to “fancy up.” Most of all, it’s super delicious. Over the years, I have seen a million recipes for this pudding. There are slightly varying proportions, but all are essentially the same recipe. A few of them were published under my watch at Martha Stewart Living. 

I became curious about its origins, so after a quick search I found an article from way back in 1985 by the writer Regina Schrambling, who did a deep dive on the subject. The recipe has been around in the U.S. since at least the early 1800’s, and I imagine in England before that.  There it is sometimes called “Self-Saucing Pudding,” along with other more whimsical names. Here it goes by many names too, including “Lemon Pudding Cake,” “Puff Pudding,” “Lemon Cake-Top Pudding,” “Lemon Surprise Pudding,” and many more. 

There is a big surprise in this recipe, a miracle even! It separates, all on its own in the oven, into two layers: a delicate spongey top which turns golden, and a luscious custardy, creamy bottom. 

There is a reason that recipes like these endure. They are so easy and good and can be made with stuff you most likely already have in the house. This sassy little pudding can be whipped up on a moment’s notice in about 15 minutes — really, I timed it! — and can be enjoyed warm from the oven or chilled. I prefer it chilled. To make it fancy, bake it in individual ramekins, and to make it fancier still, turn those ramekins out onto a plate after chilling so the shiny custardy side is on top and the spongey, cakey part is on the bottom. Add some poached rhubarb, macerated strawberries or just tumble some raspberries or blueberries around and you have a restaurant-worthy plated dessert. But really it is just a humble pudding whose elegant flavors and textures belie its simplicity. My version has quite a bit of lemon juice: the juice of three lemons along with all of their zest, versus the one lemon in Lee Krasner’s recipe. I like to really up the pucker factor and adding a slightly higher proportion of liquid to flour also keeps the custard a bit looser. 

I’m so glad I rediscovered this favorite from the past. Next time I need a fast dessert that everyone will love, I’ll be making this one.

---

And PS - I wanted to remind you that all of the recipes in my newsletters live permanently here. You can also scroll through public recipes on my site or keep up with me on Instagram. Or better yet, you can support me by ordering my book, Open Kitchen.

---

Lemon Sponge Pudding

Click here for a printable version

Serves 6

Since this is such a simple recipe, I’ve written it so it can be made completely by hand, the way Lee Krasner would have done. It really only takes a few minutes to whip the whites, but feel free to use an electric hand mixer or your stand mixer with the whip attachment if you prefer. If you want to serve them as individuals, unmolded and upside-down, decrease the milk to one cup which will result in a slightly firmer pudding.

2 tablespoons/28 g unsalted butter, melted, plus more for greasing the pan
1 cup/201 g granulated sugar
Pinch of kosher salt
3 eggs, separated
¼ cup/32 g all-purpose flour
1¼ cups/296 ml whole or 2% milk
½ cup/118 ml lemon juice (from about 3 lemons)
Zest of 3 lemons

1. Heat the oven to 350°F and butter a 2-quart baking dish.

2. In a large bowl, whisk together the butter, sugar, salt, egg yolks, flour, milk, lemon juice and zest.

3. In a separate bowl, beat the egg whites until stiff but not dry. Gently fold the egg whites into the lemon mixture until thoroughly combined. Pour into the prepared baking dish. Place the baking dish in a small roasting pan and pour in boiling water until it reaches halfway up the sides of the baking dish. Carefully transfer to the center rack of the oven and bake for 30-40 minutes, until it is golden on top and springs back lightly when pressed. Serve warm or chilled with berries and whipped cream, if desired.