Poppyseed Cookies
Just like I remember
Hi, friends, and welcome to week #55 of Susanality. Thank you so much for your support of my work and this newsletter. I appreciate it!
A few weeks ago, in an Instagram post about kreplach, I mentioned that I had always wanted to recreate the poppyseed cookies that my Ukrainian grandmother, Pearl, often whipped up for me when I came to visit her in her adopted home in Pennsylvania. For years I thought about the particular snap these cookies had, and even the slightly flour-y feel the baked cookies had in my little hand.
It wasn’t until now—spurred on by hearing more details of her story—that I was inspired to take the time to reverse-engineer these simple, homey treats.
I merely mentioned the cookies in my post, and so many people weighed in with memories of their own about this cookie. Now I know, after doing more research, that this type of cookie was ubiquitous among Ashkenazi jews, but the recipes I found were all over the map (literally, probably). After comparing many recipes, I zeroed in on the proportions that I would try for my first test. They were good, but much more like a sugar cookie than I remembered. I recalled them having a kind of brittle texture—and that they weren’t too sweet. On my second test, I nailed it. They brought me right back to my grandmother’s modest apartment in the suburbs of Philadelphia, where she lived when I knew her.
One of my friends, Randi Brookman Harris, made a comment on my post that helped me channel the “Mom-mom” vibes even more. Here’s what she said: “Ohhhhh, my Bubby’s kreplach and poppyseed cookies too!! She just took a paring knife to the rolled out cookie dough in a sloppy grid that made rhombus, diamond, and occasionally triangle shaped cookies! Zero %#*&’s given for perfection which was a big part of the charm.”
This description fit perfectly with my memories. I imagine it was something women (in those days it wasn't the men who were baking, unless it was their job) would whip up at a moment’s notice to serve to children or visitors. Or make weekly and keep in a tin. The biggest key here is to use oil, not butter, which was probably a luxury item. Poppy seeds were not, and are extremely popular in Eastern European baked goods. Of course you could jazz them up by using melted butter instead, or adding lemon or orange zest to the dough, but I prefer to keep them simple and just the way I remember them.
Poppy Seed Cookies
Makes a bunch
These snappy cookies are quick to make. The dough can be rolled out as soon as it’s combined. Since there is no butter, they won't firm up in the fridge, but if you don't use all the dough, refrigerate it. Don't be afraid to use plenty of flour to roll this soft dough out—you can always brush the excess off.