It’s fitting that I’m writing to you from Philadelphia, since the restaurant that inspired today’s recipe is right here in my hometown. I saw an Instagram post by Her Place Supper Club, which is a cute little spot that has gotten national attention thanks to the talent of its young chef and owner, Amanda Shulman, and I was smitten. Such a simple idea, to turn something literally upside down to make it feel totally new. I had already been noticing other cooks doing different twists on an upside-down pavlova, like Donna Hay and Fabián Von Hauske Valtierra, and I just had to try it for myself. It has all the flavors and textures of a pavlova, but with the fun of a crème brûlée (tapping through the top to get to the good stuff) and the element of surprise.
As you already know, I love all things meringue (evidence A, B, C, and D). Despite the fact that I generally prefer less-sweet desserts, I love how meringue balances out other creamy, juicy, and tart elements to make the perfect mouthful of ethereal goodness. I also appreciate how they can be made well in advance of when you want to serve, leaving only last-minute assembly for your guests — yes, this is a special dessert perfect for a dinner party.
I apologize in advance for the lengthy recipe. It does have THREE separate components, which is very pastry cheffy of me. (You can take the pastry chef out of the kitchen, but you... well, you know the rest.) Anyway, trust me that each element is simple — and fun — to make, and they all hold up extremely well.
For the top layer, we are creating upside-down “bowls” of crisp meringue. If you’d rather make freeform clouds of meringue — which admittedly is quicker to do — you can find a recipe for that here. But if you like playing with meringue like I do, you’ll want to try this fun technique!
On to the co-star of the show: the rhubarb. Two months ago, every restaurant menu seemed to feature rhubarb, but it was hardly to be found at the retail level because it wasn’t truly in season yet. Restaurant purveyors have access to forced rhubarb, probably from Yorkshire, England — the kind grown by candlelight. How romantic! Usually I see it in select stores, but this year I didn’t. It’s usually very expensive, and I did finally find it at H Mart in the East Village when I was working on this recipe. But finally, the local rhubarb is in, and it’s relatively inexpensive too!
If you are not a fan of this vegetable, use strawberries instead, which are also either in season or coming into season almost everywhere. Adding a few to this version is also a great idea! On the flip side, if you are a rhubarb fan like me and want more recipes that take advantage of its current bounty, might I remind you of this Rhubarb Galette, this Whipped Ricotta Toast with Quick-Pickled Rhubarb and Grated Beets, and, of course, the fan-favorite Strubarb Galette?
Don’t miss the tips and substitutions I share below the recipe. Though it’s a multi-step process, it’s not a hard recipe. Even so, I’ve shared a handful of notes to ensure your success. If you make this one, I’d love to see it! If posting is your thing, be sure to tag me (@susanspungen). Or simply comment on this post or reply to this email with your feedback. I love to hear it.
Giveaway winners
Congrats to Maureen Quigley Foster, Susan Strohmaier, and Victor Owen Schwartz — you are the winners of last week’s Veg Forward giveaway! Reply to either this or last week’s email with your mailing address.
Upside-Down Rhubarb Pavlova
Serves 4
For the poached rhubarb: