Moroccan-Inspired Pistachio Cookies

Are you ready for cookie season?!

Dec 03, 2021

It’s hard to believe it’s December already (I haven’t even put the beach chairs away yet). But this can only mean one thing… IT’S COOKIE SEASON!

If you’re new here, you should know: I love cookies. I love to eat cookies, create new cookies, give cookies away, and share cookie recipes with YOU.

In December 2019 (yup, just before COVID), I had the distinct pleasure of recipe developing and styling “12 Stunning Cookies That Will Impress Everyone You Know”—a feature for the Sunday edition of The New York Times that starred a dazzling and delicious spread of treats.

It was an assignment of a lifetime and cemented my love for what I consider to be an art form: cookie baking! Click here to see the interactive digital version (I just love how dynamic it is) and to get the recipes (though they’re only accessible if you’re a subscriber to NYT Cooking). We also made the following video that you might enjoy watching if you haven’t seen it before—or. hey, rewatching it if it’s been a while. It’s gotten more than a million views! I promise it will put you in the mood to make cookies and celebrate the holiday season.

Why do I love cookies so much?

For most of us, cookies were our very first baking project, and the very act of cookie making brings back all those warm and cozy (not to mention aromatic) memories of baking with our moms, our best friends, our siblings, or all by ourselves.

Cookies are not a big commitment. A batch can be whipped up at practically a moment’s notice, and advanced baking skills are not necessary for most recipes.

Perhaps most importantly, they’re delicious! When I’m creating a new cookie recipe, I always strive to amp up that deliciousness. I want the flavors to sing. I want there to be a salty-sweet party in your mouth that leaves you wanting more.

Last year, I created six new cookie recipes that I posted on my website, and I was so heartened and excited to see how many of you made them. This holiday season, I’m going to be sharing as many new recipes as I can with you here on Susanality! I should, perhaps, be focusing on my next book, but I know you are all expecting cookie content, so I have been devoting lots of time to this not so little side project!

Though they’re usually simple to make, cookie recipes take a while to develop because they have to be tested repeatedly. The best practice is to make just one change at a time so you really know how that edit affects the recipe. As a result, I end up with a LOT of cookies. (Poor me, ha!)

Meet the first cookie of the season!

To kick off Cookie Season, I’m sharing these Moroccan-Inspired Pistachio Cookies with an optional rose sugar garnish. Also known as ghriba or ghoriba bahla, they are ubiquitous in Morocco, and are often served alongside mint tea as an afternoon snack. They are a very simple macaroon but made with egg yolks instead of the more typical egg whites, and are prized for their beautiful crackled texture (and this was way before Instagram!). My recipe contain no wheat flour, so it’s gluten free too.

I first made these almost ten years ago when I was invited to a party with a Moroccan theme. I, of course, wanted to bring cookies (along with an eggplant salad). There are as many versions of this cookie as there are bakers. The most common type is almond, but they might also be chocolate, walnut, or coconut. I decided to make mine using half homemade pistachio flour—to add that lovely flavor and color—and half almond flour to keep the cost down. You can use all almond flour or all pistachio, if you want. You can also grind the almonds yourself if you don’t have or can’t find almond flour.

I highly recommend weighing your ingredients for this recipe (and all baking recipes for that matter) because your results will be way more reliable.

The volume of the nuts can vary a lot depending on whether you are grinding your own nuts or using pre-made nut flour, so do yourself a favor and order a digital scale. Or if you have one: use it! The texture of a cookie can be easily thrown off by too much or too little of each ingredient. The texture of these is delightfully chewy, and they are extremely low-tech to make. I just mixed it up using a fork!

The rose sugar dusted across the tops of these crackled cookies is totally optional… but looks so pretty! If you happen to have some edible rose petals in your pantry, I highly recommend using them to make this wow-factor garnish. If not, the cookies will still be great without it.

Get ready for lots more cookie content coming your way over the next few weeks!

What’s up next for my paid subscribers

Next Wednesday, I’ll be sharing another cookie recipe, an equipment guide—basically all the cookie-making tools I love and use in my own kitchen (including scale recommendations!)—as well as a rundown of my favorite seasonal ingredients for December plus ideas for what to cook with them. If you’re a fellow cookie lover you won’t want to miss it!

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A paid subscription to Susanality offers how-to videos (with demos similar to those you’d get in a cooking class), technique tips, and lots of bonus recipes you don’t receive in the free version. When you subscribe, you (or your loved one!) will receive all my weekly newsletters plus two extra each month. You’ll also gain access to the entire archive of past recipes. It’s like gifting a cooking class and cookbook all in one (and is a gift option that won’t be affected by the supply chain!).

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Moroccan-Inspired Pistachio Cookies with Rose Sugar

(Makes about 16 large cookies)

1 scant cup/125g whole raw pistachios
1 1/3 cups/125g almond flour
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
1 slightly rounded teaspoon baking powder
1/4 cup / 1/2 stick / 56g very soft unsalted butter
1/2 cup/101g granulated sugar
4 egg yolks
1/2 teaspoon almond extract
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
Confectioners’ sugar, for rolling

For the rose sugar (optional):

1/4 cup dried edible rose petals
1/4 cup/50g granulated sugar

Preheat oven to 350°F. Grind the pistachios in a food processor. It will look mostly powdery with a few small pieces. In a medium bowl, combine the ground pistachios with the almond flour, salt, and baking powder.
In a separate medium bowl, combine the butter, sugar, egg yolks, and extracts. Use a fork or wooden spoon to combine well. Don’t worry if it looks a little lumpy.
Add the dry ingredients to the butter mixture and stir to combine well. Use your fingertips to work in any unincorporated bits of butter.
Place the confectioners’ sugar in a small bowl. Pinch off a bit (28-30g) of dough (about the size of a ping pong ball), roll it into a ball, and roll it in the sugar, coating well.
If garnishing with rose sugar, combine dried edible rose petals with granulated sugar in the food processor and pulse to combine thoroughly.
Place each ball on a baking sheet, leaving 3 inches between cookies. You should be able to fit 8 on a baking sheet. If using rose sugar, sprinkle a big pinch on top of each cookie.
Bake for 14 to 16 minutes, until they are just turning golden at the base. If baking two sheets at a time, reverse the positions of the pans (from front to back and top to bottom) halfway through baking.
Let the cookies cool on the baking sheet(s) for a few minutes then transfer to a cooling rack to cool completely. Store for 2 to 3 days in an airtight container.

A few tips

If the dough seems too soft to work with, chill it for a few minutes then try again.
If you made the rose sugar, store the leftovers in a jar at room temperature (you won’t use it all).
Because you’re mixing this by hand, it’s important that your butter is REALLY soft. Before making your cookies, leave your butter out at room temperature for several hours or even overnight.
Don’t buy roasted pistachios—the color will be very brown. You’re looking for raw, shelled pistachios.

Susanality