Mushroom Risotto
"It's the dish of romance"
Welcome to Susanality, a newsletter by me, Susan Spungen. Though this week’s Friday recipe would typically go just to paid subscribers, I want to be sure all my subscribers have access to this mushroom risotto recipe, which, in my mind, would make the ideal Valentine’s Day dinner. Just follow it with a crisp salad and something sweet, like these chocolate pots de crème or some chocolate-dipped citrus with pistachios. If you’d like to continue receiving a recipe every Friday—plus bonus content every other Wednesday—consider investing in a paid subscription for the cost of one latte a month. Regardless, thank you ALL so much for being here!
I know I’m dating myself here, but way back in 1988 I got a new cookbook called A Tuscan in the Kitchen. I had traveled to Italy for the first time just a few years earlier and was quite taken—especially with Florence and the utter simplicity that is Tuscan cooking.
I knew of the author—the restaurateur Pino Luongo—through his early NYC restaurant, Il Cantinori. It’s still open (last time I checked) but Pino no longer owns it. I think I went with my parents, because I definitely could not afford it at the time. A few years later, when I became the pastry chef at another of Pino’s restaurants, Coco Pazzo, my assistant jokingly referred to it as “Il Can’t Affordi.”
I know, I know, that was kind of a spoiler in this tale—but just a few years later I did find myself working for the man who wrote the book that had inspired me so much. In that role, I got to dream up what kinds of desserts Tuscans would eat if they ate much dessert, which apparently they don’t. Beyond a few traditional things like Biscotti with Vin Santo for dipping; Zuccotto, a dome-shaped cream-filled cake meant to evoke the Duomo in Florence; or perhaps a ricotta cheesecake, Tuscans aren’t that big on dessert, which created a fun challenge. The job was a fantastic experience that lasted only nine months, when I left to take my job as food editor at Martha Stewart Living.
One essay in A Tuscan in the Kitchen really caught my attention: The introduction to the risotto section. After reading it, I felt I knew everything I needed to know about making this simple but luxurious dish, which was still kind of novel in the U.S. I didn’t even get to taste it when I was in Florence, because, again, I was on a Eurail Pass budget and a Let’s Go - Europe itinerary. I didn’t really know where to go to eat a nice meal even if I had had the money. At that time, I was more focused on art than food, so my days were spent gazing up at the David and finding cool shops on the Arno that sold marbleized paper notebooks (which I still have!).
When I came across the risotto essay, I was actually on the hunt for a dish to cook for a new guy I was seeing. He wasn’t my boyfriend yet, but I thought maybe if I cooked risotto for him he would be. I’m not sure if it was Valentine’s Day or just our first dinner, but I thought surely this would work. I even went out and splurged on just the right pot to cook it in, which was a wide, shallow saucepan—the first of many All Clad pots and pans I would acquire, which I also still have and cook with today! He did become my boyfriend… for a while, anyway. I don't still have him.
I’ll let you read the essay yourself, to see if it can teach you what it taught me. I hope you’ll keep reading despite the sexist undertones at the start (and try to remember that it was 1988 and still considered “charming” to say things like that). The cooking instructions are indeed very good—I still think about them every time I make risotto.
Why is risotto the perfect meal for a cozy Valentine’s dinner? First of all, it’s a dish that is always made better at home. It’s best cooked in small quantities and tended to mindfully, until it is stirred to perfection. Even though it’s usually served as a primi in Italy, before the meatier secondi, I give you permission to make it your main course, followed by a crisp salad. I think you’ll find it to be quite enough for dinner.
As Pino says, making a risotto should be a pleasant ritual that shouldn’t be rushed, and what better way to show someone you love them? No significant other is required, by the way. A pot of risotto would make an indulgent meal for one, or dinner with a friend!
Have leftovers?
I’ve got you covered there too. Italians always have delicious ideas for leftovers, never wanting anything to go to waste! I hope you’ve had the pleasure of eating a well-made arancini (AKA a rice ball), which is a singular treat with a melty cheese center originally designed to use up yesterday’s risotto.
Making arancini is typically involved and a bit messy, requiring a standard three-step breading procedure and a pot of boiling oil. But I’ve come up with a much simpler way to achieve a similar effect, and they might be even more irresistible than the original pot of risotto. Try both and let me know!
Q&A with Dianne Jacob
Recently I chatted with Dianne Jacob, food writer and editor and author of Will Write for Food about my recipe development process. I’ve known Dianne for years—seeing her over the years at annual IACP conferences—so I was thrilled to talk to her for her new newsletter! Dianne will be sharing a Q&A from our conversation with her paid Substack subscribers Tuesday, February 15. Check it out if you’re a subscriber of hers, and, regardless, take a look at all her content, free and otherwise! She’s a wealth of knowledge.
Mushroom Risotto
Serves 4
You’ve got to use your instincts when cooking risotto because there are so many variables: the size and shape of the pan (a low, wide saucepan is best), the type and heat level of your stove, etc. It isn't difficult to cook—it just requires some attention and care, and it helps to know what you are looking for. The rice should always be thinly veiled in liquid and bubbling energetically. When the liquid’s absorbed, add some more. The exact amount isn't important. And contrary to lore, it does not need to be stirred constantly, just frequently. You don't need to chain yourself to the stove—you can absolutely make a salad or set the table while you are cooking this. Stir more frequently and more vigorously in the second half of the cooking. This is when the grains begin to release their starch, which will help the rice be its creamiest. If you can find oyster, maitake, or chanterelle mushrooms, by all means use them! Although risotto is usually a one-pot affair, I think it’s easiest to sauté the extra mushrooms in a separate pan before adding.
1 ounce dried porcini mushrooms
2 tablespoons olive oil, divided
8 ounces cremini (baby bella) or shiitake mushrooms, trimmed and sliced
3 ½ cups chicken or vegetable stock
2 to 3 tablespoons butter, divided
1 medium shallot, minced
1 ½ cups arborio rice
1/2 cup dry white wine
2 ounces grated Parmesan cheese, plus more for serving
Put the dried mushrooms in a large spouted measuring cup or deep medium bowl and pour 2 cups boiling water over the mushrooms. Stir to make sure they are all wet. Set aside to cool.
Heat a large (12-inch) skillet over high heat. Add 1 tablespoon oil and the fresh mushrooms. Sprinkle lightly with salt, and toss to coat evenly with the oil. Cook, stirring frequently, for 3 to 4 minutes, or until golden brown on the edges. Set aside in the pan.
After 15 minutes, scoop the dried mushrooms out of the water, squeezing excess liquid out. Chop mushrooms finely and set aside. Reserve the liquid.
Put the stock and the reserved mushroom liquid (you should have 1 ½ cups left) in a small saucepan on the back burner of the stove. Bring to a simmer, turn down to keep warm, and cover until ready to use. Have a soup ladle ready.
Heat a medium saucepan that is more wide than deep over medium heat, and add 1 tablespoon butter and 1 tablespoon oil. Add the shallots, and cook 2 to 3 minutes until translucent. Turn down the heat if they threaten to brown.
Add rice and the reserved chopped mushrooms and cook for 2 to 3 minutes, stirring until the grains look slightly translucent. Add wine and cook until nearly absorbed, about 1 minute.
Add a ladleful of stock (it should be just enough to barely cover the surface of the rice). Cook at a lively simmer, stirring very frequently, until it’s nearly absorbed, 2 to 3 minutes. Continue adding stock in this way until rice is very creamy, but still al dente, 15 to 20 minutes total. You may not need all of the liquid, but you will probably use most of it.
Rewarm the fresh mushrooms, and stir half of them into the risotto. Stir in the remaining butter (1 to 2 tablespoons—your choice) and the cheese, and add salt and pepper to taste. Add more of the remaining liquid if needed to loosen (it should be a tiny bit soupy), and divide among warmed shallow bowls. Top with remaining mushrooms.
Cooking tips and variations
If you don't want to dirty an extra pan, you can omit the fresh mushrooms. There will still be plenty of mushroom flavor from the dried porcini.
Taste your stock mixture before you start adding it to the rice. Add salt if needed, because this is your best chance to season from the inside out!
There are other kinds of rice that can be used for risotto, like Carnaroli or Vialone Nano. Many people consider these to be superior for the creamiest risotto, but Arborio is what you’ll probably find in your supermarket, and it will do just fine.
Keep the stock covered while you’re getting everything ready so you can maintain the quantity. You don't want it boiling away!
There should be just a little more liquid than you need. If you do run out, you can add water at the end, but heat it first!
Never add cream to risotto—the creaminess comes from the starch in the rice. When you add the butter and cheese at the end, it will get very creamy!
Risotto Cakes
What to make with mushroom risotto leftovers
Assuming you have 2 cups of risotto left over, mix 1 beaten egg and 1/4 cup panko breadcrumbs in a medium bowl. Add the cold rice and a pinch of red pepper flakes or Aleppo-style pepper and mix well.
Using dampened hands, scoop up about 1/4 of the rice mixture. Press a cube of fontina or mozzarella cheese into the center, enclosing it, then flatten into a patty. Repeat with the remaining mixture.
Use another 1/4 cup of panko breadcrumbs to coat both sides of the patties.
Heat 1 tablespoon olive oil and 1 tablespoon butter in a large (12-inch) skillet over medium-high heat. Cook the patties for 4-5 minutes on the first side until golden brown. Flip the patties, cook for 1 minute, and transfer the pan to the oven (heated to 350°F) and cook 10 minutes. Serve immediately.
Thank you for your support of Susanality. If you know someone who would enjoy this recipe, I hope you’ll forward it along. And please let me know by email or IG (@susanspungen) if you make this risotto and/or the cakes in the coming days. I truly love to hear about and see your creations!
Great idea! I have many risotto cookbooks from living in Milano for several years. I sampled many unique risotto combos including fruit. So versatile!