Chicken-Tofu Tsukune
And a "Make It Japanese" cookbook giveaway open to all!
Today’s newsletter would normally be for paid subscribers only, but it is free for everyone because I like to include all Susanality subscribers in book giveaways. I also like to expose my fellow authors’ work — like the following (delicious) recipes for Chicken-Tofu Tsukune and Cucumber and Fennel Sunomono by Rie McClenny — to the largest audience possible.
The first time I heard of Rie McClenny was when her book (like many others kindly shared with me by publishers and authors) landed on my doorstep. I must have been living under a rock though, because Rie is internet-famous from her time at BuzzFeed’s Tasty, where she created and hosted a plethora of shows, one of which was called “Make It Fancy,” which eventually inspired the title of her book. She has her own YouTube channel now, as well as a big Instagram following. She shares her recipes there, sometimes with the assistance of her son, Hugo. The two of them make a very charming pair, and I don’t want him to grow up!
I was immediately smitten with the homey, bright, and whimsical cover design of Rie’s new cookbook, Make It Japanese (keep scrolling for the cover art!). The book was just begging to be opened, and open it I did. Steve and I proceeded to bookmark all the recipes we wanted to try. Somehow these recipes appealed to me not just as an eater, but as a cook. I could see how simple and elemental they were, and I wanted to get into the kitchen with them ASAP.
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Shortly after I received the book, I caught a demo Rie gave at the Cherry Bombe Cooks and Books event in Brooklyn, and got a little taste of her food. I love when the simplest things are done well, and Rie does them very well.
We are big fans of Japanese home cooking in this house, and are well-stocked with the basic Japanese pantry staples. We always have soy sauce (of course!), mirin, miso, rice wine vinegar, sake if I’m lucky, nori and kombu (because they keep forever), dashi powder, and soba. I bought a bag of bonito flakes when I was last at Kalustyan’s so I could make some real dashi, at Rie’s urging, which I haven’t done in a long time. I know that’s probably more than most people have, but I’m a professional! You don’t need all those things, though, to pull off most of the recipes in Rie’s book.
As Rie points out in her introduction, when she came to the U.S. as an exchange student at age 17, she sought out Asian ingredients so she could replicate the food she knew. Even though she could only find sake, mirin, and soy sauce (in West Virginia!), she found she could creatively adapt her mom’s recipes. It was her cure for homesickness, and you’ll want to read about the rest of her very interesting trajectory that led her to where she is now. If you want to listen to her story in her own words, you can listen to her interview on the This is TASTE podcast here.
I plan to try as many of the bookmarked recipes as possible, because they are exactly how I like to eat, but I immediately gravitated to the Chicken-Tofu Tsukune first, because I was so intrigued by the thought of using tofu as a binder for meatballs. Rie explains in the headnote for this recipe that it’s common in Japan to mix in tofu with other ingredients because it’s considered thrifty and healthy. Although Rie calls for firm tofu, I only had medium in the house, and I used that. I think medium tofu gives them an even better, slightly softer texture, but either will work. This idea, simple as it is, is a game-changer! It was a head-slapping moment. I served the meatballs, at Rie’s suggestion, with the Cucumber and Fennel Sunomono (recipes for both are below). We usually eat short-grain brown rice at home, so we had it with that, and the second time, I incorporated a runny poached egg on the side. We’ve had this dinner three times now, so it is most definitely in the rotation! It’s also so simple that I now know the recipe by heart.
I plan to branch out soon. Other recipes on my list are Loaded Vegetable Miso Soup, Curry Rice, Parchment-Baked Lemon Miso Salmon, Sake-Steamed Clams, Miso-Yogurt Roasted Chicken, Shrimp in Chili Sauce, and Nikujaga, which is a cozy beef and potato stew. The latter is a perfect example of how Rie has adapted her childhood comfort food using American ingredients. Instead of the thinly-sliced beef that was readily available in Japan, she uses ground beef, which results in a very similar flavor. It looks delicious and I think I may make that next!
Thank you, thank you to Rie for sharing these recipes with the Susanality community!
Giveaway Time
To enter to win a copy of Rie’s book1, Make It Japanese, simply comment on this post and tell me why you want it! I’ll choose a winner at random on Monday, March 4. And if you’d like to purchase a copy, click here.
Chicken-Tofu Tsukune
By Rie McClenny
For these chicken tsukune (meatballs), I use tofu to bind the ingredients instead of soaked bread or bread crumbs. In Japan it’s common to mix in tofu with other ingredients as it’s more affordable than meat and considered healthier. Since tofu is mild in flavor, it doesn’t affect the taste of a dish. It also gives the meatballs a lovely soft texture and adds moisture to the chicken. I like to eat the meatballs dipped in raw egg yolk, but if you’re worried about eating raw egg, you can try a poached egg. Serve the meatballs with a bowl of rice and Cucumber and Fennel Sunomono (recipe follows).
Serves 4
SWEET SOY SAUCE:
2 tablespoons soy sauce
2 tablespoons sake
2 tablespoons mirin
1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon sugar
MEATBALLS:
8 ounces firm tofu
1 pound ground chicken
2 scallions, finely chopped
2 tablespoons potato starch or cornstarch
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons neutral oil, such as canola or grapeseed
Toasted white sesame seeds, for garnish
MAKE THE SWEET SOY SAUCE: In a small bowl, combine the soy sauce, sake, mirin, and sugar. Whisk until the sugar is completely dissolved. Set aside.
MAKE THE MEATBALLS: Place the tofu on a plate lined with paper towels. Set aside for 10 minutes and gently press to remove excess water.
Transfer the tofu to a medium bowl. Using your hands, a whisk, or a potato masher, break apart the tofu and mash until finely broken down. The texture should be similar to ground meat.
Add the ground chicken to the tofu and mix until fully combined and sticky. The mixture should hold together. Add the scallions, potato starch, salt, and pepper. Mix well until fully combined.
Shape the meatball mixture into large balls (about 3 tablespoons per meatball). If the mixture sticks to your hands, lightly wet your hands with water. Sightly flatten the meatballs to a 1-inch thickness. You should have 14 to 16 meatballs.
In a large cast-iron pan or nonstick skillet, heat the oil over medium heat. Working in batches, cook the meatballs until golden brown, about 2 minutes per side. Reduce the heat to low, cover, and cook until the meatballs are cooked through, 5 to 7 minutes. Transfer the meatballs to a plate.
Wipe the skillet clean with a paper towel. Add the sweet soy sauce and bring to a simmer over medium-high heat. Cook until the sauce is thick and syrupy, about 2 minutes. Return the meatballs to the skillet and coat with the sauce. Sprinkle with sesame seeds, if desired, and serve immediately.
Cucumber and Fennel Sunomono
By Rie McClenny
This vinegary vegetable side dish is very refreshing and easy to make. It reminds me of a palate cleanser and is the perfect small side to balance a richer meal. There are many ways to make sunomono, the simplest version being with cucumber. I’ve added fennel for a hint of anise. The dressing has no oil and is made with just vinegar, salt, and sugar. The sugar is an important ingredient, as it counters the sharpness of the vinegar. I recommend starting with 1 teaspoon of sugar, tasting the dressing, and adding more to your liking.
Serves 4
1 English cucumber, very thinly sliced (about 3 cups)
Kosher salt
1/2 fennel bulb, very thinly sliced (about 1 cup)
1/4 cup rice vinegar
1 teaspoon sugar, plus more to taste
2 tablespoons toasted white sesame seeds, whole or coarsely ground
Place the cucumber in a medium bowl and sprinkle it with 1 teaspoon salt. Toss to combine. Set aside for 10 minutes. Drain the cucumber, using your hands to squeeze out more liquid.
Add the fennel to the bowl with the cucumber. Stir to combine.
In a small bowl, combine the rice vinegar, sugar, and 1/4 teaspoon salt. Stir well to completely dissolve the sugar and salt. Taste and add more sugar if desired. Stir in the ground sesame seeds.
Drizzle the vinegar mixture over the cucumber and fennel. Stir to evenly coat the vegetables. Serve immediately. The cucumber and fennel salad will keep in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 2 days.
TIP | I highly recommend using a mandoline to slice the cucumber and fennel. It’s the easiest and quickest way to get thin, uniform slices. Be careful with it! If you don’t have a mandoline, use a sharp knife and make sure the slices are about 1/16-inch thick.
Recipes reprinted with permission from Make It Japanese by Rie McClenny, with Sanaë Lemoine, copyright © 2023. Published by Clarkson Potter, a division of Penguin Random House, LLC.
Newsletter editor: Molly Ramsey
This giveaway is open to residents of the 50 United States and the District of Columbia, 18 years old or older. No purchase necessary. All federal, state, and local regulations apply. Limit one entry per person. Void where prohibited or restricted.
I’m eating mostly plant-based ( with some fish) these days so I’d love to try adapting these Japanese recipes to that style. I’m wondering if shredding cabbage finely to substitute for the chicken would work?
I would like a copy of this book because one of my favorite memories of visiting Okinawa was having savory foods for breakfast - it made me realize that American sugar-laden breakfast foods were not an ideal way to start the day. So having inspirational recipes would be a great jumping off point. Thanks!