If you’re hosting a crowd for the Super Bowl (go Eagles!), you’re going to need good hearty food that can sit for hours. I have clear memories of my mom hosting a Super Bowl party in the 70s, though I remember it being a daytime party. Did the Super Bowl used to be a daytime game? Anyway, I remember the atmosphere of fun in the sunny house while we ate quiche Lorraine and cheese fondue! I thought this was really swanky for a football game. I have no memory of who was playing, but probably not our home team of the “Iggles” because they always lost back then.
If you’re hosting (or even potlucking), this Turkey Chili will please most everyone. It’s full of tender bites of butternut squash in a rich chile-based sauce. I make this all the time — it’s in my permanent rotation for meal prep. It’s quite healthy, makes a generous amount, and doubles easily if need be. It keeps well in the fridge for several days, making it a perfect make ahead if you’re hosting, or just something to have on hand for lunches or dinners.
Now, I know there are easier recipes for chili. I also know that this is not traditional chili. For that, there’s a recipe in my book, Open Kitchen, for a “Bowl of Red,” which has chunks of beef braised in a rich chile sauce (highly recommend).
Of course there are always shortcuts that will cut down on the prep time, but if you’ve learned anything about me and my recipes since you’ve been here, it’s that I want you to go the extra mile sometimes, because the results will be worth it, and you might learn something along the way.
A quick guide to cooking with dried chile peppers
If you haven’t cooked with dried chiles before, I urge you to give it a try. Even if you haven’t bought them before, chances are they’re lurking in your supermarket. In mine, they hang in the produce department on a hook near the fresh peppers in bags. Or they could be in the “Latin” section. If you have a Latin market, you will also find them there, or from that superstore in the sky. I usually buy mine from Kalustyan’s when I’m in NYC, where you can also order them online. They carry a staggering array of dried chiles in a variety of package sizes.
Dried chiles will give your chili a special flavor, and one that you have some control over, at that. I like my chili to have a lot of chile flavor, but not be super spicy, so I use plenty of ancho chiles, which have a rich, raisin-like flavor. Just like the fresh poblanos they’re made from, they might be occasionally spicier, but tend to be pretty mild.
I also use some guajillos, which are the dry form of mirasol peppers. Guajillos are medium spicy, and are slightly sweet and smoky.
I always keep pasilla chiles on hand to round out the flavor — these are slightly spicier and not as sweet as anchos. Finally, I add chile de árbol for heat. These are tiny red chiles. Here’s where you can adjust the heat according to your taste.
TO RECAP:
ANCHO = quite mild, rich and raisin-like in flavor
GUAJILLOS = medium spicy, sweet and smoky
PASILLA = medium spice (a little more so than guajillos), not as sweet as anchos
CHILE DE ARBOL = spicy, add heat
The next step is to break open the chiles and remove the seeds. Even though these varieties aren't particularly hot, you might want to wear some gloves for this step especially if you're sensitive. To be honest, I usually skip this next step, but if you want even more complexity, toast the chiles, either by toasting in a hot pan, or in the oven at 350℉, until they smell toasty, being careful not to burn them. Let them cool slightly.
Now it’s time to rehydrate the chiles. I boil water in a saucepan (about half full) and add the chiles. Turn off the heat and let them sit until softened, about 10 to 15 minutes. Then transfer to the blender with enough liquid to barely cover them, and puree until smooth. I usually end up with more than I need, and freeze the extra puree for the next time.
If you want to make this chili but DON’T want to make the chile puree, go ahead and use chili powder instead, probably about 2 tablespoons instead of the 1 teaspoon called for in the recipe below. For a very deep dive into this entire process, I refer you to this article on Serious Eats by J. Kenji López-Alt. I’m also happy to answer any questions you have.
This may sound like a lot of work, but it’s really not! The hardest part is just getting your hands on the chiles. Once you do that, the rest is easy.
Cooking with dried beans
As you’ll see below, I also prefer to cook my own beans for this concoction. I always cook a whole pound of beans and freeze the extra (after cooling in the liquid) for the next time. Frozen beans keep really well as long as they’re covered in liquid. Canned beans are fine, but they will be saltier, and won’t have as firm a texture as homemade beans. This step can be done a day or two before you cook the chili, as can the chile puree.
To serve the chili for a party, it's fun to set out all the garnishes and let folks make their own bowls at their leisure. Depending on your setup, you can keep the chili hot on the stove, or set the Dutch oven on a warming tray, or keep it in a slow cooker. I didn’t have any avocado when I did the shoot for today’s newsletter, but by all means add chunks of avocado to this spread, or make guac and chips to go with.
V-Day treats
Next Friday I’ll be sharing a sweet treat (spoiler alert: it’s a chocolate cake!) with full-access subscribers in preparation for Valentine’s Day. The newsletter will also include a giveaway — one lucky commenter will win a copy of Anna Higham’s new book, The Last Bite. If you’re missing cookie season and are in the mood for a decadent dessert, consider investing in a paid subscription so the recipe lands in your inbox!
Last February, I shared a recipe for Chocolate-Dipped Citrus with Pistachios (paywalled) and the Chocolate Pots de Crème that you see above. Check them out if you’re a new subscriber!
Turkey Chili with Poblanos and Winter Squash
Serves 4 to 6
To shortcut this recipe, use 2 tablespoons of chili powder in place of the chili puree, and canned beans instead of homemade.
2 ounces mixed large dried chilies, such as California, Guajillo, and/or Ancho, deseeded (about 10 chilies)
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 fresh poblano peppers
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 medium onion, chopped
2 cloves garlic, chopped
1 teaspoon chili powder
1/2 teaspoon ground cumin
1 pound ground turkey (93% lean) or lean beef
1 ½-pound butternut squash, peeled, seeded, and cubed, or 1 (20-ounce) package peeled, cubed squash
3 cups cooked beans, with enough broth to cover (recipe follows), or 2 cans pinto beans
2 cups chicken stock or water
Grated cheese, fresh cilantro, diced avocado, sour cream or yogurt, for serving
Place the de-seeded chilies in a small saucepan, cover with cold water, and bring to a boil over high heat. Turn off the heat and let the chiles sit until softened and cool enough to handle, about 15 minutes. Transfer to a blender with enough of the liquid to cover, and blend until very smooth.
Place the poblanos directly over a gas flame, and char them, using tongs to turn them occasionally, until blackened all over, 8 to 10 minutes total. Transfer to a plastic bag to steam and cool. When cool enough to handle, rub off all the charred skin. Cut off the stem, slit open the peppers, and remove the seeds. Dice.
Heat the oil in a small Dutch oven or large saucepan over medium heat. When the oil is shimmering, add the onion and garlic, and cook until soft and translucent, 10 to 12 minutes. Stir in the chili powder and cumin and cook for 1 minute, stirring. Add the turkey or beef and season with 1/2 teaspoon salt and freshly ground pepper. Cook, breaking up with a wooden spoon, until the meat is no longer pink, 8 to 10 minutes.
Add the squash, beans, diced poblano pepper, the stock or water, a 1/2 cup of chile puree (or more to taste). Bring to a boil and simmer for 35-45 minutes, until thickened and flavorful. Use a fork to smash some of the squash against the side of the pot to help thicken it. Taste and add more salt or chile puree as needed.
Pot of Beans
Makes 6 cups beans and 3 cups broth
Cranberry aka Borlotti aka Roman beans take about 45 minutes to cook, but cooking times vary depending on a few factors, including the age and the size of your beans, if using another type. Adjust accordingly. I like to do a quick soak, as described in step 1, but you can also do an overnight soak if that’s easier for you. If you’re an instant pot person, feel free to cook your beans there!
1 pound (about 2 ½ cups) dry beans (I like cranberry beans), rinsed
1 ½ teaspoons kosher salt, divided
3 to 4 garlic cloves, peeled
1 small onion, peeled and halved (see note below recipe)
1 bay leaf
Parmesan rinds (optional)
Fresh thyme (optional)
In a large, deep saucepan, add the beans and enough cold water to cover them by 3 inches. Add 1/2 teaspoon of the salt, place over high heat, and bring to a strong boil for about 1 minute. Turn off heat. Let beans sit, stirring occasionally, for at least 1 hour. Drain, rinse, and return to the same pot.
Add 8 cups water, the garlic, onion, bay leaf, remaining 1 teaspoon salt, and, if using, the Parmesan rind and a few sprigs of fresh thyme. Bring to a boil over high heat, then reduce the heat to medium-low so it is simmering energetically. Cook for 40 to 45 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the beans are tender all the way through to the center. The garlic cloves will be very soft—smash them into the liquid.
Let everything cool in the liquid, then discard the onion, bay leaf, Parmesan rinds, and thyme. Transfer the beans and broth to an airtight container and refrigerate for up to 3 days or freeze until ready to use.
NOTE: When you cut the onion, be sure not to trim the root so all its layers stay together.
Editor: Molly Ramsey
Made this for Super Bowl watching and it was a very big hit. Thank you! I added more cumin, chili powder and Chile paste because I like it deep and spicy. Otherwise, I found the proportion of the ingredients just perfect.
Thank you for the dried chile pepper lesson and "to recap" summary that will be a helpful shopping guide. I make turkey chili all the time, but your recipe looks so much better! I usually use chile powder, but I can see how using a mix of the dried chiles you describe would make for a much richer flavor and be worth the bit of extra effort.